Pink Arrow = The pulley that is connected to the crank shaft Rotate the tensioner pulley toward the center of the engine, using the appropriate socket, to loosen tension on the belt. Replace the water pump and engine fan and tighten in the holding bolts in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench. So I'm guessing that it's just the cover that goes over the timing chain. Mercedes-Benz Metris Timing Chain Replacement RepairSmith offers upfront and competitive pricing. If you have an oil leak down the front of your engine, inspect the VANOS seals and the upper timing cover … Press the new seal into the timing cover and tap it with the dead blow hammer until it is flush with the surface of the cover. Replacement timing cover gaskets are easy to find, but the labor to actually remove and … Next, he’ll reinstall the camshaft sprocket bolts, and push the crankshaft seal out using a hammer and punch so that he can tap the new crankshaft seal into the timing cover. Step 5 – Remove valve and timing chain covers. Install timing chain cover and install/torque all bolts, per Repair Manual. Free Shipping by Amazon. These high quality replacement seals are great for stock replacement, street performance and most race applications. Remember that oil leaks can damage the timing cover gasket, in which case the gasket can no longer protect the timing belt. Department. This engine uses a timing chain, rather than a timing belt, and the bottom of the cover has a seal where the crankshaft snout passes through it. Clean the gasket-mating surfaces of the engine cover, taking care not to score the cover, if you are reusing it. Because of this, the recommendation is to replace the cover. Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack. For this E65/E66/N62 DIY job-Valve Stem Oil Seals: 11340029751 - Qty: 2 (16 in a pack)-Valve Cover Gaskets (Cyl. Sooner than later, the engine will get too low on oil and the result will be extensive engine damage. Close the radiator cap. Loosen the fan pulley bolts, but do not remove them. If that happens, you need to replace the oil seals, timing belt and gasket together. Fit crankshaft sprocket locking tool [3]. Start the engine and check for leaks. These bolts can strip relatively easily, so take care when removing them. Copyright 2021 Leaf Group Ltd. / Leaf Group Media. Red = Where the leak was on the seal Yellow = Water pump cover, so the water pump could be change without taking the engine out. Step 1: Install the new gaskets and seals. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Coat the lips of the seal lightly with clean engine oil. Then, he’ll cover the seal with oil before he replaces the timing chain cover, followed by water and fuel pumps, as well as the fan. Remove the engine fan and the water pump by removing the holding bolts in a counterclockwise direction with an adjustable wrench. Close the radiator petcock. Pry the seal out of the front cover using a small screwdriver or other pry tool, taking care to not distort the cover. Set the fan and water pump aside. Start the vehicle and allow it to come to operating temperature. Apply RTV gasket sealer to the surface of the engine and timing cover where the gasket mounts and stick the gasket to the engine or the timing cover. Install the seal into the cover, using the seal installer. My FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store) said that the part number for the ’63-’66 timing cover seal was National 332062 (GM 544452). Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal by loosening the holding clamp nut with an adjustable wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Other indications that the gasket or cover itself might be failing include: a knocking sound from the front of the motor while it’s running (as the loose cover moves against the engine), a rough-running motor (due to dirt interfering with the timing belt or chain) and a check engine light (caused by the loss of vacuum inside the motor from a leaking gasket). A pinhole in the front of the head on that weld seam that you can see inside the head half way down the head in front where the timing chain is (some of that plastic metal bog stuff fixed that) on the bolts that go through the cover into the oilways (master pipe sealant on the bolts fixed that) and on that rubber gasket (that always seems to start leaking eventually). 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